Day 30: Meandering in the Irish Mist

Ok so today’s title is positively euphemistic in every way. When we looked out the window from Shepherd’s Lodge this morning, the sheep had abandoned us in search of somewhere warmer and drier and the cloud hung ominously low over the hills beyond. The hot water shower heater that had given us grief yesterday had been replaced and was now pumping out a lovely hot shower. Packing done and breakfast had, it was time to thank Sheila for her hospitality and to bid farewell to Killarney. We are very glad that we stayed there. 

Out on the road today and the decision as to whether to wind along the Shannon River or to take the ferry from Tarbet. The information about the ferry is notoriously hazy; it talks about it running once per hour on the half hour but that in peak times it runs twice per hour. No definition anywhere could be found as to what actually constitutes a peak time. But we were up for risking it because it would save some driving time and would give Chris a break from driving and would be yet another mode of transport... and the good news, well the ferry arrived for a 10am departure and that suited us just fine. A smooth 20 minute transfer, with a cup of tea from our trusty thermos to pass the time, and we were off on the other side and that is where the fun really began. 

We were following Siobhan’s trusty little sat nav, and with few exceptions, she had done fairly well, much better than Harry who sent us on some very wild goose chases. Then it happened. Take the road on the left off the ferry then turn right. Hmmm it did look a bit narrow, but there was a car in front of us that had also been on the ferry who was going that way so we followed and it got narrower and narrower and the grass and moss down the middle of the road grew more and more and then Liz spied a sign just as we crested a hill, well past the point of no return. The sign read NOT SUITABLE FOR SAT NAV VEHICLES. Bit late team, we were committed and the road ahead unfolded like a Disney roller coaster and we were off. We were grateful for the Renault in front because he was manoeuvring all the tricky bits and making decisions about where to stop to let cars squeeze on by, but it was certainly an experience. We came to what looked like a small village and the poor Renault surrendered and pulled to the side of the road, giving Chris the lead. Fortunately on the other side of the village the road was significantly better, at least room for passing and so we continued the journey. 

We kept following signs to the Wild Atlantic Way, and soon it became apparent why as we met the Atlantic coast. We stopped in a very quiet town right on the coast called Quilty. It was a pretty place and we watched the clouds gather and the surf slam against the rocks. At this point it was blowing a gale but still blue skied in parts, so we popped over to the pub for a quick lunch. Then it was off on the quest to find the Cliffs of Moher. 

Driving through County Clare, Chris and I were discussing that this was very much Father Ted type countryside. It looked all like the set of that hilarious TV series. Well it turns out that most of the filming for the series was done in places in County Clare and we recognised the windy areas, the sparse housing and the rock fences (see below for further rock fencing explanations).

The carpark is quite a hike from the cliffs and so we parked and grabbed the rain jackets as the rain started to set in. It was light at first and so we thought we would have a go at the visitor centre and learn about the geology and the wildlife we were going to see. Not wise, as the rain then began to tumble down and the cloud and sea mist rolled in. We paused for a short time, thinking that it might improve, but even when it did it was only seconds before the rain was driving against our faces and drowning our jeans. The visibility was down to about 10 metres and the path was dangerous. So sadly, what should have been a lovely afternoon stroll became a nightmare fantastical. It is a stunning location, and I am very pleased to have learned about its shale composition in comparison to the limestone karst topography adjacent, but it was a disappointment. We struggled back to the car, shed the jackets and tried to dry off as best as we could as we droving further on, destination Galway. 

Closer in to Galway we were again “google napped” as Chris was not sure whether he wanted to drive through a mountainous area called the Burrens or whether he wanted to go the other way. But the sat nav decided and the Burrens it was. An area of limestone and sandstone and mudstone, ground down during the last ice age, the hills are terraced and literally covered with rock. It is a little akin to driving into Queenstown in Tasmania: a bit of a moonscape. I am glad we did the drive because it was stunning and so different to what we had seen only 10 kilometres ago at the shale cliffs of Moher. It also explains in part the hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of miles of rock fencing that exists in this part of Ireland: fencing on steroids!  

There are some pretty little villages and a couple of ruins along the way but then, with the weather clearing just a little we caught our first glimpse of Galway Bay. How exciting. Another Irish ditty from my youth realised. But then the fun began again in earnest. We were over 45 minutes late getting to our destination in Galway because of the horrendous traffic causes by roadwork diversions. The city was in gridlock. Then, we finally arrive at the B&B to be told that they had let our ground floor room that we had been promised but they had a lovely attic room for us on the third floor. Ah no! So next door Chis went and, miracle of miracles they happened to have a small ground floor en-suite room. It was basic but adequate and so he went back to the other guy and said, NOPE, you didn’t meet our needs, tough luck! We were very comfortable and in spite of the traffic, were so blessed that a parking spot appeared out the front of the accomodation and was non metered over night. Phew! And believe us when we say, the car is going nowhere in that traffic. 

Off down the road in search of more meds for runny noses and somewhere for dinner. We were a little lost with which way to go when a lovely Irishman offered directions telling us that the An Puchan Pub had a reputation for good food and live music. So we discovered it en route to the pharmacy and decided it would be good for the evening. Great music and the food was good too, So a real Irish pub experience in Galway.

A wander back up the hill and we were home to fall into bed, exhausted after a challenging day for Chris on the road.